The West Coast - Koh Lanta and Koh Phi Phi

The day we woke to leave Koh Phangan was cloudy and windy. Our big car ferry barely moved but I think a few sick bags were required on the smaller boats.

We travelled to Krabi before heading out to the islands. Unfortunately my continuing deafness and now ear inflammation meant I had to do something. We spent 300Baht and 3 hours at the local hospital to be told that I had wax and to see an Ear, Nose and Throat guy. So we turned up to said guy, who just happens to have a clinic on the main street, and 15min later I had clean ears, drops, pills and a 4 day no swimming order. I was thrilled to be under a no swim order amongst tropical islands!

As it turned out the no swim for 5 days was Ok, because it was still monsoon. The cloud and wind whipped up the Andaman sea, making the beaches less than desirable. We decided that the larger, yet lesser known Koh Lanta would be quieter, cheaper and therefore better than the famous Koh Phi Phi. With the beaches off the To Do list, we got a scooter & explored, finding windy roads and beautiful vistas. But there was just nobody around. Tumbleweed rolled along the main road. Things were closed, so we decided the get the boat over to Phi Phi.

Phi Phi Island is a tremendously beautiful place, and everyone knows it. Its so overdeveloped that the only accommodation in our budget was complete crap! (And it was suggested to us as one of the better budge options). After reheated Pancakes (read: microwaved carpet, almost inedible) we were ready to leave again. But we stuck it out and headed on an afternoon and evening boat trip to the smaller Koh Phi Phi Ley which is a national park.

Our first stop encompassed all that is wrong with Phi Phi. A beach called Monkey Beach, complete with litter and tens of people goading, trying to feed and kicking sand at monkeys when they came close. We felt really uncomfortable (no-one else seemed to) and were glad to leave. We passed a large cave where swallows nests are collected for the Chinese delicacy Bird's Nest. Its actually fibrous swallow spit. Yummy!


While I watched jealously, Tash went snorkeling and saw some beautiful tropical fish (putting returning to dive ideas in our head). She had a close call with some dozy bottom feeder of a boat driver wielding a long tail boat propeller.












We saw the set of the film "The Beach" after some swimming (me very carefully) using some ropes, wildly crashing waves and maneuvering ourselves into a hole in the rock (that was fun!).


With dinner provided, all we needed to do that night was to satisfy Tash's craving for sticky rice with Mango.

I'm going to say something that will shock, confound and leave those reading this aghast. We have been very disappointed with the Thai food. I know, I know, I can barely believe it myself. Tash had a dish on Koh Lanta with half cooked prawns, most of my curries were little better than coconut soups. Of course a there are a few exceptions around. What has become of Thai cuisine? TOURISM. To get the good food, get off the beaten track. We're getting off to Malaysia!