Taman Negara - time for some jungle action

It was time to head to the jungle. We decided to catch the famous jungle train so we headed to nearby Kota Bharu, which also happens to be famous for its night food market. We wondered around the market trying to decide and settled on some Nasi Ayam Percik - bbq chicken marinated in a spicy coconut gravy, stuffed Roti Canai and a feast of local sweets. The meal was lip smack'n, finger lick'n good! The next morning we had to get up at 2:45am to catch the 4:18am jungle train (did not need to get up so bloody early, we followed bad advice). Luckily we slept (well Tash did) for the first few hours and awoke to see the train gliding through thick mountain jungle. It was a slow but beautiful journey. 8 hours later we arrived in time to catch the 3 hour slow boat up the river to Kuala Tahan which sits on the edge of Taman Negara jungle.

After checking out a few options we concluded that accommodation at Kuala Tahan is overpriced and very grotty. We reluctantly settled on Tersek View Motel (we heard rumours it was the only place in the area that was bed bug free).

The next day we headed out for some jungle trekking with some lovely fellow Aussie travellers we had met along the way. First we headed to the Canopy Walkway which is suspended 20-30m above ground between huge trees. Not long after we started I decided not to torture myself again (I've already done two of these bloody things on this trip).

We then followed a series of trails through the jungle. While Taman Negara is a beautiful national park, sightings of exotic wildlife (ie. elephants, tigers, leopards) that inhabit the park are very rare. But one thing we did spot were hundreds of leeches.... They were everywhere and anywhere. If you paused for a second, a little brown leech would poke its head up from the ground and come creeping towards you. This is where Greg the Big Brave Man, became a Scared Little Mouse. As we wondered the jungle Greg spent every second checking, and rechecking his legs for a little creature that is about 2cm long. Inevitably we all got leeched and Greg accepted his fate stoically. Hot and sweaty from jungle trekking we ended the day with a leech free swim in the river.

Our next mission was to try and find the nearby bat cave Gua Telinga. After dodging leeches and jumping over tree roots we finally arrived at what we thought was the entrance to the bat cave. Using the ropes we crawled into the darkness as far as we could. But couldn't seem to find a way through. Confused we crawled out and headed out and back along the path where we soon found a big sign to the cave. Feeling braver we crawled into the cave and followed ropes through different caverns. The number of bats (and the horrid smell of bats) growing. We then emerged into a cavern that was full of hundreds of little bats. We sat in silence as they whooshed around our heads. Greg went exploring to see if there was a way through and concluded must be one-way. We started to head out and luckily bumped into a tour guide who explained we could keep going through. He showed us the way out - a small crack, half filled with water! Soon we found ourselves at the exact point we had tried unsuccessfully to enter earlier. We surfaced from the cave wet and covered in mud - but happy we had made it all the way through.

That night we went on a guided night walk. With a group of 17 it was amazing we saw anything. But we did see snakes, scorpions, stick insects and some cool glowing mushrooms.Its so hot and humid here that its time to cool off.......

Perhentian Islands - a tropical interlude

WHAT a bus trip! We set off at 5:00am packed to the gills with people and bags. Apparently late, we hammered along. We happened to be in the back, bouncing around and getting thrown from our seats as we cannoned into one of the frequent potholes (yet rest stops lasted for ages?!). We arrived with sore butts and out of breath. Next step was a speed boat ride - we decided to head to Pecil Perhentian which is the smaller, cheaper island.

Though shared traumatic experience, we met Veronica, an Argentinian on her way home for the first time in 3 years after studying Chinese in China, and Jarna, an Aussie taking advantage of 3 weeks between Singapore work commitments. We became nigh on inseparable for the next 3 days. As the beach got closer, the boat slowed to a stop and we were informed that 2 ringgit each would get us to the shore (After asking about this, I was given the excuse that the brand new concrete pier with a boat drawn up to it was 'broken', hehe no shame)

After finding accommodation we hit the beach. And that's pretty much what you do in the Perhentians. The water is beautiful and clear, snorkeling is great, the sand is white and you don't get bothered. We did a couple of dives (saw sharks and turtles!). We played Sahibba (Malaysian scrabble, strangely has very few consonants, tough game!) during the nightly monsoonal rain.

After the relaxing interlude, it was time to bid Veronica a very fond farewell and move onto the next stop, jungle!

Georgetown, Penang - Intro to Malaysia

The first thing we noticed about Georgetown was the cool fusion of Malaysian, Chinese and Indian cultures. We tasted the most succulent tandoori chicken, glistening BBQ pork belly and sizzling satay skewers hot off the coals. We wondered the streets and saw a mix of colonial buildings, historic mansions, Chinese temples, and bollywood video stores. Little India, Chinatown and the colonial district all within close walking distance. We happened upon an Indian celebration with a music and dancing taking over the streets. Next moment we were watching a traditional Chinese opera set up on the sidewalk.

We left Penang with strong memories of some of the most tastiest, exciting and interesting food we have experienced. (Note: Greg did experience the worst Indian in the history of the world - he was reminded of this fact every time we went to the loo for the next 3 days, which was frequently)

The West Coast - Koh Lanta and Koh Phi Phi

The day we woke to leave Koh Phangan was cloudy and windy. Our big car ferry barely moved but I think a few sick bags were required on the smaller boats.

We travelled to Krabi before heading out to the islands. Unfortunately my continuing deafness and now ear inflammation meant I had to do something. We spent 300Baht and 3 hours at the local hospital to be told that I had wax and to see an Ear, Nose and Throat guy. So we turned up to said guy, who just happens to have a clinic on the main street, and 15min later I had clean ears, drops, pills and a 4 day no swimming order. I was thrilled to be under a no swim order amongst tropical islands!

As it turned out the no swim for 5 days was Ok, because it was still monsoon. The cloud and wind whipped up the Andaman sea, making the beaches less than desirable. We decided that the larger, yet lesser known Koh Lanta would be quieter, cheaper and therefore better than the famous Koh Phi Phi. With the beaches off the To Do list, we got a scooter & explored, finding windy roads and beautiful vistas. But there was just nobody around. Tumbleweed rolled along the main road. Things were closed, so we decided the get the boat over to Phi Phi.

Phi Phi Island is a tremendously beautiful place, and everyone knows it. Its so overdeveloped that the only accommodation in our budget was complete crap! (And it was suggested to us as one of the better budge options). After reheated Pancakes (read: microwaved carpet, almost inedible) we were ready to leave again. But we stuck it out and headed on an afternoon and evening boat trip to the smaller Koh Phi Phi Ley which is a national park.

Our first stop encompassed all that is wrong with Phi Phi. A beach called Monkey Beach, complete with litter and tens of people goading, trying to feed and kicking sand at monkeys when they came close. We felt really uncomfortable (no-one else seemed to) and were glad to leave. We passed a large cave where swallows nests are collected for the Chinese delicacy Bird's Nest. Its actually fibrous swallow spit. Yummy!


While I watched jealously, Tash went snorkeling and saw some beautiful tropical fish (putting returning to dive ideas in our head). She had a close call with some dozy bottom feeder of a boat driver wielding a long tail boat propeller.












We saw the set of the film "The Beach" after some swimming (me very carefully) using some ropes, wildly crashing waves and maneuvering ourselves into a hole in the rock (that was fun!).


With dinner provided, all we needed to do that night was to satisfy Tash's craving for sticky rice with Mango.

I'm going to say something that will shock, confound and leave those reading this aghast. We have been very disappointed with the Thai food. I know, I know, I can barely believe it myself. Tash had a dish on Koh Lanta with half cooked prawns, most of my curries were little better than coconut soups. Of course a there are a few exceptions around. What has become of Thai cuisine? TOURISM. To get the good food, get off the beaten track. We're getting off to Malaysia!

Koh Tao and Koh Phangan - Diving is FUN!!

After taking the day train down to Chumpon, followed by a smooth ferry ride very bloody early the next morning with a couple of still pissed but highly entertaining Finnish lads, we arrived on Koh Tao (southern Thailand). This island is the most north of three that includes Koh Phangan and the more famous Koh Samui.

Our destination was the setting for Greg's attempt at becoming a diver: Coral Grand Divers Resort. As part of the deal (about AUD$330), accommodation came with the PADI open water course. It was a basic but comfortable room at this rather plush resort located right on the beach.

While Greg hit the classroom, Tash got down to some serious sunset photography. A past-time based on the irresistible beauty of a tropical beach in fading crimson hues.

The class had a multicultural feel with me, a Brit, a Swede and a Dutchman. I won't bore you with the details, suffice to say we all got on well and all passed well. As part of the course we were taken on 4 dives around the island. The most beautiful of which was to Chumpuon pinnacle, with clouds of fish and beds of corals. This was a dive down to 18m, the maximum depth for this qualification. I found deeper dives much more fun.

The day after, filled with the energy of completing a course successfully, and armed with new masks, Tash and I were "diving buddies" for a mornings fun diving. We went to a site called Southwest, which was again great, with schooling Barracuda, Groupers, Angel fish, Anemone fish, Xmas tree worms and some striking rock formations. Our new masks worked beautifully, completely free of fog, allowing great viewing (you're there to see things after all). Frustratingly, the other pairing were excited and breathed deeply, shortening the dive considerably. The second dive was also amazing, with our guide showing us little see-through Glass shrimp, and Pipe fish (cousins of the seahorse), Moray eels and Blue Spotted Rays. The rock formations were also really cool and the dive was long.

Happy, we grabbed the ferry across to the next island, Koh Phangan, without a clue as to where we'd be staying. Ten minutes after landing, we were on the back of a ute heading to a beach resort. After we arrived, we decided the shack with ill fitting panels and a great view of the local road didn't befit 'resort'. We did however later find a bungalow on the headland with fantastic sea views, and for the same price!

The main reason to come was a dive site called Sail Rock, a rock pinnacle 15k off the islands shore. One of the best dive sites in the gulf of Thailand because of the diverse fish and coral life, as well as the varied rock formations (including a cool chimney 18m down to swim up and a rock wall to explore). There was some great schools of fish, and some big schools of divers. Our boat was the first to arrive, but when we came up there were 7 other boats on location! Despite the other divers, Sail Rock was no disappointment.

Bangkok - I can't believe we got scammed!!

But scammed we did. More on that later.....

Our arrival in Bangkok seemed like a step up in size. Everything about this city is so much bigger than anything we had seen so far in SE Asia. So much taller, so much brighter, so many tourists. We stayed a few blocks from the hedonistic pleasure zone that is Khao Son Road. A walk down that colourful street during the crazy time (evening) reminds you what you did when you were young.

After taking a ferry down to the post office (a very nice ride), we headed back up into town to see a few sights. But first we headed to the train station to book a ticket down south. We got stopped by a woman offering "free" advice. So we asked her a few questions and before long we were in a Travel office chatting to a young guy about diving courses on Koh Tao island (our next stop). The price was great, so before we knew it we had booked a PADI open water dive course for Greg in one of the most popular dive locations in the world. We then headed over to Chinatown to wander the spice and food markets stopping briefly for some beautiful Peking duck and succulent roast pork.

Now for our little scam. The next morning we decided to head down to the Golden Palace. As we were walking an older respectable looking gentleman came up to us and said he was a Buddhist teacher at the university, and that unfortunately the Palace was being visited by the royal family that morning and we should go to another couple of places first (note: at this point we should have clicked - a famous scam is that a popular tourist site is closed). He showed us on the map and then magically hailed a TukTuk driver for us. We headed out on our impromptu tour after thanking him for his help. Our driver told us he was an art student, and after going to the first reclining Buddha, he asked to stop at some (crap) jewellery place so he could get a fuel stamp, all apologetic at his lack of funds (I'm a student). After a look at the marble temple, which had a very cool selection of Buddha statues from various traditions around the world, he wanted to stop at a craft place. We reluctantly agreed on the condition that this was the last unplanned stop. But then he took us to a bloody tailoring place where a greasy Indian salesman followed us like a bad smell. We were not happy. When we got to the golden mount, we expected no more interruptions.

But when we came back ready for our next destination, are driver had buggered off leaving us in the middle of bloody nowhere. As far as scams go we got off very very lightly. We did not pay him for the trip and we did not get locked in a gem store (as the story goes). But we did miss out on seeing the famous Golden Palace and we were left feeling confused and distrustful. It's a classic Bangkok scam - we should of known better....

Eventually we found ourselves looking at the magnificent golden reclining Buddha. Laughing at how we got done.

Thoroughly exhausted from not being able to trust anybody, we headed south where the sun is shining and the beach is the place to be.

Phnom Penh

Getting to Phnom Penh turned out to be one of the easiest stops we've ever done. On the way in, we were thinking about how we were going to get from the bus station to our intended guesthouse. Were we going to get a Tuktuk? A taxi? As as we got into the centre of town it began to pour with rain. Taxi firmed as favourite. Little did we know that the bus was to bypass the bus station and head to its company office, which turned out to be a block from the hotel. Easy!

The central Emerald Pagoda and Palace sprawl over large grounds in the centre of town. The buildings are just beautiful, and the grounds are well maintained. The Palace has a stately central building which is used for official purposes. Its very ornate in the Asian style. The Emerald Pagoda houses a 90kg pure gold Buddha encrusted with large numbers of big diamonds.

Phnom Penh does give you pause for thought. It makes you wonder at the power of information and the cruelty of man. Everybody knows about the killing fields, the Khmer rouge and the disaster that befell this poor country. To see it up close, the holes of excavated graves, the skulls in the museums and memorials, the graphic representations of what occurred and its victims, it just hits you. And all for some half baked idea of communism. Hard to fathom. But after seeing the horrors, its good to get some great food, a drink and check out the brighter side. You have to remember its the history of the country, not its future.



The city has little districts that specialise in things like art shops, restaurants. Its a big sprawling city that has these little gems of streets and areas that are great fun the wander around in. Tash even bought some silk cushion covers! But its on to Bangkok.....