Cusco

Arrived into Cusco at the ungodly hour of 530, thinking we might get picked up by our chosen hostel. Sitting at the bus station for the next hour without success, we tried to get a cab. A fight nearly broke out between cabbies. Then we switched our hostel at the last minute due to a write up in the bible (lonely planet). A reasonable if not perfect choice.

Cusco is a beautiful place. Once the capital of the Inka empire, the spaniards built over the top of the place after they shot it up. We´ve been wandering around admiring architecture, huffing and puffing with the altitude, and getting asked if we wanted to get a massage. Managed to get saturated one night when the heavens opened and then didn´t stop until morning. Ducked into a roast chicken joint after the fire inside caught our eye as we ran. High fives after our awesome meal.

There are some local Inka ruins that require the most bizarre ticket to see. Its called the Boleto Touristica and gives you access to about 12 sites for a ten day period. If you only want to see less sites you get a different ticket, but if you want that one you need to be persistant because they don´t really want to sell it to you. Two ruins in particular took our eye for the sheer scale of them. The first is Saqsaywaman (or sexy woman) which has massive stone blocks fitted tightly together without mortar. Cusco was originally envisioned as a Puma and this fortress was the head, with military and govenment based here. The last Inka nearly beat the spanish by laying seige from here. Only 20% of the original structure remains, and that is massive. Qenqo, Pukapukara, Tambomachay are also in walking distance from Cusco, beautiful places that had significance. The other that we really liked is Ollantaytambo. Where the Inka´s actually won a battle (their only victory), the terraces fit into the moutain really well and are Huge. I think about 75m up in total. Blocks that weighed 50 tonne. Its the oldest continually inhabited Inka town that retains Inka town planning. The Inkas were very good at getting water to all of their structures with channels and aquaducts. They also built their walls with round balls of stone under them for support during earthquakes. Pretty cluey.

We´re close to the start of the Inka trail and Machu Picchu, the excitement is rising.....

Colca Canyon

The colca canyon is the second deepest canyon in the world. So we thought it would be a good idea to walk into it and then out of it. Normally I would be very happy to do that sort of thing but on the first day, i was not a happy camper. The night before had been a long one due to some stomach lurchings. We began with a bus ride, to the Condor lookout. These giant majestic birds are known to soar very close to the cliffs, looking for food as they get looked at. But there wasn´t much food about so we only saw one. But climbing down the 1000 or so metres into the canyon wasn´t fun for me, but Tash was going great guns. I was getting altitude sickness as well. But our guide, Roy, came to my aide with a chemical smelling liquid that made me throw up, which made everything better. A few Colca remedies when we got down to the little village\hostel also did the trick. The views of this place were amazing. The different colours of the rock, the shear walls, and as we looked up at the path we had come down, you realize how steep it is. There are native people who live down there all their lives and they climb out regularly, with mules and horses. Those beasts are very sure footed but smell appallingly bad. The next day was easier and we made our way along the base of the canyon to a place called the Oasis. The pool here and the fire that kept us warm overnight was great, which however the bed was not. The walk out was hard but good and we both got to the top in good time and good spirits. The bus took us to the hottest hot spring our bodies could handle. What a brilliant way to lose all the muscle pains that we had picked and have a good chat to the group of people we were with. It was a diverse bunch with American newlyweds, an Irish couple moving to Australia, a German couple, an English Lady taking a year off work and us. Straight away its onto an overnight bus to Cuzco and all the Inka sites it holds.

Arequipa

We arrived here in Arequipa (altitude 2350m) at 11pm at night after being on a bus for 8 hours. That was a hell of a road. Stretches of straight followed by stretches of tight curves. We decided to watch the movies on offer and paid the price with motion sickness. Me worse than Tash. But arrived safely in the end.

This town is very cool to walk around in. Its surrounded by hills, a couple of them upwards of 5000m. Tash wants me to call them mountains but i refused. The architecture here is great, there´s something about getting some age in a building to imbue it with spirit and majesty. Visited an old monastery here that was opened up in 1970 after nearly 400 years. The colours and art were really vibrant, yet the vibe was one of tranquility. Found a lookout for the largest of the hills (no Tash, hills) after being refused by one cab, taken to the wrong place by another and walking for 20 minutes. But worth the wait. A great view.

We´re on our way to the Colca Canyon to start a 3 day trip tomorrow morning at 4am. Then straight onto a bus to get us overnight to cuzco. Check back in soon

Pisco and Nasca Lines

We travelled by bus down to Pisco. This little town was destroyed in an earthquake about 18months ago. Would you believe the earth shook for 3 minutes! Went out to the poor mans Galapagos, the Ballestos Islands to see thousands upon thousands of birds, and smell the acrid guano (bird droppings) They mine the stuff for fertilizer. Not a job i want. Penguins and sea lions also abound. Tash was the only person to get gubered, and she got it twice! If that means luck, get a lottery ticket!

Also saw the driest desert in Peru. Two millimetres of rain per year. Was dusty.

The bus ride from Pisco to Nasca was loockshery. We were starving, fading away, considering buying grapes from street sellers to get us by, when the foam container of joy from the hostie appeared. Picante chicken with rice and fries! (everything on the menu everywhere comes with fries). High fives all round. Aus buses could learn a thing or two.

In Nasca we are staying in a quaint little hostal and i can only equate to staying at nan´s house.

Saw the nasca lines by air in this little plane. It was swerving to let both sides of the plane see the desert clearly. It was a very cool thing to see. It was also very good at inducing nausea. Look at the ancient geoglyph, look at the hoizon, look at the ancient geoglyph, look at the hoizon (If you can see it!!). Just about to board a bus down to Arequipa where the next chapter begins. Adios!

Lima Peru

We`ve arrived into Lima Peru. Landed this morning after a bloody early flight. Its colder here than we anticipated. Managed to survive the maniac who tried to kill us while driving us to the hostel. The hostel here is clean and quiet, something Tash is looking forward to as she is suffering quite badly from jetlag. Hasn`t slept for 2 days poor dear. Looking at her eyes, she should do better tonight. And the sleeping pill should help.

Santiago was a nice city and we both liked it there. Had fun and saw some pretty cool stuff. Lovely architecture and squares. We did however manage to have the worst seafood meal EVER. We went to this place on a recommendation. It was sea themed, complete with decour, large fake whale skeleton, the works. This place was like the kitchest place you can imagine, multiplied by ten. Tash had a broth that looked and tasted like it was the water the poor seafood was boiled to hell in. It was the chewiest, oldest, grittiest experience. This is one of those meals that will forever be a marker in the sand. ´at least this isn´t as bad as that experience in Santiago!´ But enough of the bad stuff.....

Tomorrow we head on a 3 hour bus ride to a place called Pisco. There are islands off the coast that are the ´poor mans Galapagos´, so we thought we´d give them a go. More soon....

Santiago!

We've arrived safely into Santiago. For those at the airport, that plane we saw from the observation deck was our bird. The flight was long and felt longer. Neither of us got much sleep on the flight as we were in the middle, and they don't call it cattle class for nothing. Got into the hostel and immediately went to sleep for 4 hours. Feeling a lot better we ventured out for our first experience. Wandering through a new city is always a strange experience, and I am taken by the relative dirtiness of the place. Managed to successfully order our first drink, and our first meal, if quite nervously. Its great being here!

Moving Out

What a strenuous couple of days to begin the tour. The first and most unpleasant job was to clean and leave the apartment. It was sad to see it leave our hands and move onto its next chapter. Its been such a great place, full of happy times and great memories.

We packed up the car and ute, enjoyed a great relaxing evening having dinner cooked for us (you rock James and Mon), our journey began. After dodging rain, bugs and the odd truck, lots and lots of hours later we arrived in Bathurst. With everything intact. Now is the calm before the storm. We've both retired for some downtime before the real action begins. 3 days to go!